Hej Hej Stockholm

I've wanted to visit Sweden for quite some time now. Maybe it goes back to my childhood, loving the Muppets and of course the Swedish Chef. It could also be that I grew up in Toronto, with one of the first Ikeas outside of Sweden, and my childhood bedroom was filled with furniture that had names such as Malm and Ektorp, which seemed to come from a world away. Okay, so everyone is really, really good looking, including the fast food attendants at Max (much better than McDonald's), but the main reason I wanted to visit, is that I've met so many nice Swedes while traveling, that I figured a country full of friendly people had to be a great place to check out.

While I was getting my dive master certification in Thailand, I met Andreas and Nicole, a very cool couple from Stockholm. They were getting certified to dive, and I was assisting the instructor on the course. We shared a crazy twenty four hours of diving and partying on the island of Ko Phi Phi, and I figured it would be fun to go visit them in their native city. I was already in Europe, and although Stockholm is quite far from Rome, a flight on Ryan Air cost me approximately Sixty Euros, so I couldn't really pass up the opportunity. Ryan Air really is one big flying bus, no perks, and tons of hidden fees. But if you can master the art of booking on the cheap days, fly with only a carry-on bag, and print your boarding pass ahead of time, it's worth it for the price.



I ended up staying at the Best Hostel Old Town (great name, right?) in Gamla Stan, meaning the old town in Swedish. The location could not have been better, as it was right on the water with amazing views. Gamla Stan is situated on a tiny island, in the middle of the river which separates the shopping area of Norrmalm to the north from the cool area of Sodermalm to the south, with its trendy neighborhood of SoFo (South of Folkungagatan). The old town has beautiful cobblestone lane ways, shops, restaurants, cafes, and the Royal Palace. You can pretty much walk the whole area in less than an hour, it's that small.



The Best Hostel Old Town is in a very old, but recently renovated building. The place was so big, with tons of rooms, several kitchens, and multiple floors. The layout was strange with many stairways, that you really did need directions on finding your room. I was happy once I checked in. I booked myself into a seven person dorm, and I was the only one staying in the room for several nights. The place was clean, modern, had fantastic beds, a good kitchen, free Internet, and for $30 USD a night, it was a big upgrade from the horrible hostels in Rome.



My plan of four days in Stockholm quickly turned into a week. The weather was unbelievable and everyone was in such a good mood, I just couldn't leave. The days were sunny, and I mean sunny. About twenty hours worth of sunshine in the summer months. It was really strange to be out drinking on a terrace at 11 pm and have the sun just starting to set. It's even stranger to get out of a bar at 3 am and have the sun starting to rise. I could only imagine what it must be like in winter when it's reversed and you have twenty hours of darkness, plus cold temperatures. Apparently people can get pretty grumpy, and I don't blame them. The city reminded me a little of Montreal, since it's so cold in the winter, that when the springtime comes, everyone is out enjoying the fresh air. In Stockholm, everyone rides bikes. The lanes are great, and it's such the norm that commuting is easy. One thing I highly recommend is getting yourself a three day rental from the tourist information office or kiosks around the city for $10 USD. You can pick up and drop off bikes at various points around Stockholm, not a bad deal at all.



Nicole and Andreas were amazing hosts and it was so great to see them after about six months. Nicole is a fashion designer and Andreas is an actor, and they made sure my week was filled with a mix of sightseeing and partying with the who's who of Stockholm. It was fun to meet all these great people and I now have lots of new Swedish friends. Alex, who is also another actor, was gracious enough to let me stay with him after I was tired of my hostel. Nizar, who has the site Cool Stockholm, put on a massive 35 hour party at Bern's, one of the hottest clubs in the city. That made sure my Friday and Saturday nights were set. We also spent an evening enjoying the large terrace at Mosebacke, a really cool beer garden. It's a great setting, but expensive burgers at $22 a pop really put a dent in my wallet. I just want to put prices in perspective for any traveler to Sweden. This country isn't cheap, and since they tax the hell out of liquor, a night out on the town could potentially kill your backpacking budget. Another good outdoor area for food and drinks is Medborgarplatsen, which has a huge square and is located by the subway stop with the same name.



A unique spot which is also worth mentioning, is the ThaiBoat beach bar and restaurant. Since we were all reminiscing about Thailand, Nicole and Andreas thought it would be fun to take me to a large boat floating on the river, which had a little man made beach on board, and served food and drinks. We ended up going twice during my week since it's a really great restaurant, decked out in Thai fashion.

Besides touring around the old town and visiting the Royal Palace, I walked the shopping streets of Drottning, Biblioteksgatan, and Gotgatan, and also checked out the bohemian boutiques and cafes in SoFo. In addition to recommending the fashion boutique Acne, where Nicole is a designer, I would also check out Solo which is a fantastic store with the trendiest labels in Sweden.



Just outside of Stockholm, there is one of the World's most breathtaking archipelagos of tiny islands. I was highly encouraged to take a day trip, and I'm glad I did. Since you could literally spend days touring around the islands, I chose to travel an hour by ferry to the quaint town of Vaxholm, which is a popular summer destination for Swedish tourists. It is a tiny town, with little shops, and a several public beaches for swimming. The scenery along the way was breathtaking, particularly all the small islands with private homes, and this would be the place to live if I was working in Stockholm. I would be married to a supermodel, own Ikea, and just commute to the city center by Jet Ski. Hey, can't one dream?



My last night in the city was spent Bar-be-cuing in a tiny park in Sodermalm. I was lucky to cross paths with my friend Hannah who I had met rock climbing in New York. She had just moved back to Sweden and introduced me to yet another friendly group of Swedes, who invited me to try out their Swedish grill. My friend Scott, also put me in touch with his friends Lars and Jennie, who took me out on the town and got me to try Herring (Strommings Rule in Swedish) from a street vendor. It was amazing, and I highly recommend it. They served it in a pita with mashed potatoes, and cole slaw. Strange, but so tasty. I swear, everyone in that country is awesome. I would consider moving there, shacking up with a Swedish girl, and living the Scandinavian dream...if only the winters weren't so cold and dark. It's okay, I still love you Stockholm.

Here are photos from my week in Stockholm, to better understand why I love this city.

To get a little idea of the crazy partying that went on during the 35 hour event at Bern's, check out this video clip.

Rome - One Bella of a City

For some strange reason, I wasn't very excited to visit Rome on this trip. I'm guessing it's because I didn't have a great experience the last time I was here in the summer of 2000. At that time I was backpacking Europe with my old college girlfriend, and from what I remember, Rome was hot, the hostels sucked, and the food we ate tasted like it was straight from a Chef Boyardee can. Nine years later, Rome is still hot and humid in the summertime, it is crowded with way too many tourists, the hostels are pretty crappy, but somehow I didn't care this time around. Maybe it's because I've been to hotter and more crowded cities since then, but I had a fantastic time with my six days in the city.

I left the Amalfi Coast, and my family, and headed to Rome to get some much needed solo backpacker time. I had just spent several weeks with my mother and father, and as much as I love them, that's just too much time without a day off. The plan was for them to come meet me in two days, where we would celebrate my mother's 60th birthday in style. My sister Rachel was flying in from New York, and it would be the first time in several years that we were all together again.



The train ride from Salerno took about two hours on the express train, and I arrived at Rome's Termini Station at around noon. Termini is the main transport hub in the city, and also the best area to stay in my opinion. You can walk to almost any point of interest, and if you need to take the subway, all the trains run through Termini. Another great thing about the area is that food is pretty good and cheap. You can get a three course price fixed meal for around ten to fifteen Euros, including wine. My favorite is the Ristorante Il Condor at #50 Via Manin Daniele. There are some serious shady (or "dodgy" as the Brits like to say) parts around Termini, but if you're not out too late, and keep your wits about you, then it seemed safe to me. Plus, I always think that these types of neighborhoods add character and even possibly a good story to a vacation. I mean, if you wanted safe, you could just book your next vacation to a Club Med resort, but is that really living life?



I ended up staying at the Rome Korean Hostel on Via dei Mille. I know what you're already thinking. Korean Hostel? I just figured that a Korean hostel had to be somewhat clean, and maybe I could get some Bi Bim Bap! Most of the Rome hostel reviews on Hostel Bookers and Hostel World seemed to be bad, and this one was somewhat good. Not great, but good. It turned out that the hostel was pretty bad. Online it said they had air conditioning, free pasta dinners, and lockers. When I arrived, they couldn't find my reservation. They actually didn't even have a computer at the hostel to check reservations! But the day attendant from Sri Lanka (not Korea) was nice and very accommodating. My room didn't have air conditioning, they only do pasta dinners on Saturday nights, and in addition to no lockers the dorm rooms were un-lockable, and the main hostel entrance never seemed to have an attendant around. I spoke to other backpackers, and it sounds like most of the hostels in Rome are similar. The hostels are incorporated into residential apartment buildings and all claim to have amenities that don't really exist. It's like one big joke on the backpacker community...ha. Maybe I'm getting better at dealing with these bumps on the backpacker road, but after a couple days, I didn't seem to mind. It was hot during the day and a cold water shower was actually kind of refreshing.



In contrast to my hostel, when my parents and sister arrived several days later, we checked into a real hotel, and it was like night and day. The Hotel Selene is also near Termini Station, but is in a much nicer area, around the corner from Piazza della Repubblica, and across from the Teatro dell' Opera (Opera house) on Via del Viminale. Okay, so rooms here run a hundred Euros a night, compared to a dorm bed at twenty Euros, but if you can splurge, go for it. The hotel also had the most amazing buffet breakfast that was included in the room price, and I might have even eaten a hundred Euros worth of food each morning. Hey, sightseeing in Rome will make you hungry!



I was recently asked by a friend of mine who is heading to Rome, how much time do you need and what would you see? Since I had six days I could take my time, but the funny thing is that I basically saw all the major tourist attractions in two days. So, it's up to you. Two days is the minimum you would need to see Rome, but three to four would make it more enjoyable. So this post is dedicated to my friend Jess in Argentina as she's heading to Rome shortly.



Without further ado, here is what I would do and see if you only had two to three days in Rome:

Day 1: Visit the Roman Forum, Palantine Hill, and Colosseum.

- Head out from Termini Station and walk to Piazza della Republica. The piazza is more of a traffic circle with the nicest McDonald's I've ever seen, but the buildings are gorgeous. If you have time, check out the Santa Maria degli Angeli church. It's really pretty inside.

- Walk down the Via Nazionale until you come to Trajan's Market and Trajan's column. This is the first of many ancient sites, so get ready. From here you can also see remains of the Forum of Trajan, the Forum of Augustus, and the Forum of Caesar.

- Walk across to the Piazza Venezia and visit the massive Monument to the first king of Italy, Victor Emanuele II. The monument is truly amazing, and gives such a nice view over the Roman Forum, all the way to the Colosseum.

- If you exit from the back of the monument, this will take you next to the Capitoline Hill, and the Piazza Campidoglio, designed by Michelangelo in the 16th century, and said to be the most perfect piazza in all of Italy. The Capitoline Museums are also located in the square, and are not to be missed.

- Head to the Roman Forum and Palantine Hill. The ticket cost is about thirteen Euros, and also includes entrance to the Colosseum. I would buy the joint ticket at the Forum instead of at the Colosseum. It saved me tons of time as the line to buy it was much shorter. I recommend visiting the Palantine Hill closer to sunset, since the view over the Forum and other parts of Rome is amazing.

- Last stop is the famous Colosseum, just next door to the Roman Forum and Palantine Hill. Make sure you go up to the top so you get a nice view down into the chambers that were once beneath the arena floor, and which housed the exotic animals and slave gladiators who fought them.

- Finish the day with the best meal in Rome, only a five minute walk from the Colosseum. We celebrated my mother's birthday at Ristorante La Piazzetta (tel 06 6991640) #23/a on Via della Buon Consiglio. It has a buffet antipasta table with the most amazing dishes. You could probably make a meal of just this, although their mains are to die for. Seriously, the best meal in Rome.

Day 2: The Vatican, Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, Pantheon, Piazza Navona, and a whole lot more.

- Get up early. I mean early. You want to be at the Vatican Museum when it opens up. It really is an amazing collection of art, and as much as I hate being herded in like cattle with thousands of other tourists, it's worth it. Michelangelo's Sistine Chapel is breathtaking, but there is so much more to the museum than just this. You could really spend a whole day in here and just break the surface. I only lasted three hours.

- From the Vatican Museum, walk to St. Peter's Square and Basilica. I had tried to visit the Basilica twice in my six days in Rome, but I never got in. The first time I had a Swiss knife in my pack and the security guards didn't like that. On the second time, the Pope was giving his weekly Wednesday speech to the huge crowd gathered in the square. I had visited the Basilica in 2000, so I wasn't too bummed, and seeing the Pope was pretty cool.

- Walk across the Ponte Sant' Angelo with the statues of the ten angels.

- Go for some much needed lunch at the best Pizzeria in Rome. La Focaccia is located at #11 Via della Pace, just around the corner from the Piazza Navona.

- Check out Piazza Navona. My favorite Piazza in Rome, which has the famous Bernini fountains.

- Next, head to the Pantheon, my favorite building in all of Rome. You'll see why once you get there. It was originally built by Marcus Agrippa as a temple to all the gods of Rome, and still has the original columns in place at the entrance. You feel dwarfed by the size of the columns and building in general. I was there on a day when it rained, and the water came straight down through the central oculus that is open to the sky.

- From here, head to the Trevi Fountain which is the largest Baroque fountain in Italy. I visited the fountain every day while I was in Rome, and even spent two hours at night just staring at it. Be warned that it's a mad house with tourists at all hours of the day and night. Everyone wants a picture of themselves tossing a coin over their shoulders into the fountain for good luck. I'm still waiting for my wish. But I'm patient. Oh yeah, don't forget to try some amazing homemade gelato from San Crispino which is around the corner at #42 Via della Panetteria.

- If you can time it right, head to the Spanish Steps and the Piazza di Spagna for sunset. The view from the top is gorgeous, and hopefully you'll get a nice view of the sun setting over St. Peter's Basilica in the background. If you're into designer fashion, check out Via Condotti just next to the steps.

- It's party time. There are numerous pub crawls that take place around Rome. They are cheesy, and I was one of the oldest guys on the crawl, but I still had fun. I joined the Spanish Steps Pub Crawl, but I think they're pretty much all the same. Open bar for an hour, free pizza, and then you go bar hopping for a couple hours. If this isn't your scene and you want to do what the locals do, head to the Campo de Fiori and enjoy a bottle of wine in the piazza with some friends. It's much cheaper and more European. From here, head to the amazing bars and restaurants in Trastevere. Trastevere is probably my favorite area in all of Rome. If I had to make a comparison, it's like the East Village in New York. Packed with young people, good food, and a fantastic nightlife. Maybe I'll move here one day. On your way to Trastevere, check out the original Jewish ghetto (where the term came from), with a beautiful synagogue. Then continue walking over the Ponte Fabricio, with the little island, it's well worth it.

- Some other things you could see as well are the Piazza del Popolo, the church and fountains of San Carlo Quattro Fontane, and the Villa Medici.

Okay, so if you're not exhausted by reading all of this, then you'll definitely be exhausted by doing all these things on the itinerary.

By day six in Rome I was going stir crazy, so I jumped on a plane for Stockholm. Hej Hej Stockholm, but that's another story.

Here are my photos, Rome 1 and Rome 2, from the amazing city.

Los Angeles and the Left Coast

It always amazes me that people want to move out to Los Angeles. Okay, so the weather is pretty good, but doesn't anyone ever think about the traffic? My friends that have lived there a long time, all tell me that you get used to driving at least an hour to and from work each day. That's way too much time spent in the car if you ask me, and it's not exactly helping to reduce our carbon footprint. I guess the key is to try and live somewhat close to where you are going to work. But what happens when you want to meet up with friends who live in another area? It doesn't seem uncommon to drive an hour out of your way to hang out with friends at a bar. I'm not saying LA is a bad place, it just takes a certain kind of person to want to live there, and I'm just not that type of person. Sorry LA. I have a hard time living in a place where it seems that everyone either wants to be famous, or hang out with famous people. But this is really Hollywood that we're talking about, so aside from Hollywood, I can manage. I do happen to really like Malibu, Santa Monica, Venice, Redondo and Hermosa beaches, and of course, the jewel that is the city of Long Beach (LBC).

It's actually pretty funny, but if it wasn't for a trip to Southeast Asia in 2005, I probably wouldn't have discovered Long Beach. Strange statement right? I met a group of super cool girls at the entrance to Angkor Wat, and the rest was history. I spent about a week traveling with them in Siem Reap, and the beaches of Southern Thailand. I guess there are just some people who you meet while traveling that simply become family. My friends, or I should say my new extended family in Long Beach are: Erin, Danielle, Nicole, Greg, and Hal. As long as they are living in LBC, I'll always make the trip to visit them, and that's just what I did this past Spring.

I flew from Newark to LAX airport on Continental Airlines, and met up with my friend Jonathan who recently made the move from New York to Los Angeles. He started his own clothing business, and just loves the weather and girls. So he's an example of someone who loves LA. We spent the day driving around downtown LA, visiting some old work colleagues, and taking advantage of some authentic Mexican tacos. Apparently I have an Argentinian accent when I speak Spanish, or at least that is what the woman at the taco restaurant said to me. She thought it was hilarious. I didn't really get the joke. I was just happy that she understood me. After a solid afternoon of touring downtown, I met up with Greg and we drove the forty five minutes south to Long Beach.



Greg and Danielle are two of my favorite people. Greg works at Capitol Records in LA, and Danielle is a real estate agent. If I had to decorate a house, I would hire Danielle. Their place has tons of plants, and art from all over the world. They are always such great hosts, and make it so that I never want to leave. Since we first met in 2005, I think I've gone to visit them about a dozen times. I keep asking them to come visit me so I can return the favor, but I'm still waiting. Hint hint, nudge nudge. But I guess I need to be a permanent residence first!



The next day I spent hanging out with Greg at the iconic Capitol Records building in Hollywood. I visited the studios and got an amazing tour of the building and archives along with my childhood friend Christian (who is also known as the comedic genius behind the blog and NY Times best selling book Stuff White People Like), who recently moved out to LA. The view from the top of the building was stunning, and I was able to see the Hollywood hills, and all the way to high rises of downtown. One highlight was getting to sit in Frank Sinatra's old chair in Studio A where he recorded some of his most famous songs.



That evening I got my first tour of downtown LA at nighttime. I have to say, I was pretty blown away with the diversity of fun bars and places to go. I usually go out in Hollywood, but I'm thinking downtown is the new place to be. We started the evening at the Edison Room, which is probably the largest bar I have ever been to. I'm not even slightly exaggerating. Converted from an old electric plant, you feel like you're entering into the nineteen thirties when you walk down the stairs, and the bar just opens up before you. With massive ceilings, sofas, and old power plant paraphernalia, you feel like you're stuck in a time warp. One of the coolest things about this bar is that they give you a token to buy a thirty-five cent drink at the bar, going back to the depression era prices. They also have a soup kitchen with cheap food on Fridays, and live music on Thursdays. Why can't all bars do this now that we are officially back in a depression? From the Edison room we went to get some food at Wurstkuche. Recommended by Val as the best exotic sausage joint in LA, we drove about ten minutes to a random side street in the historic arts area. Val wasn't lying, the sausages were exotic and damn tasty. I had a grilled rattlesnake and rabbit sausage with jalapenos! I also tried the duck, bacon, and jalapeno sausage, which might have been a little better, but it was too close to call. The place is an artsy hipster style restaurant with a back room filled with modern picnic tables and a huge list of imported Belgian and German beer. It's great for a group of people, and I will definitely go back. After a late night bite, we went to some pirate bar, no joke, with the worst music I have ever heard. It was so bad that I won't even tell you the name or where it is. Actually, I think I blocked it from my memory. From here we decided to go to the Seven Grand whiskey bar, a Scotch lovers dream come true. The decor was amazing with tartan plaid wall paper and rugs, pool tables, and a whole lot of deer heads mounted on the wall. The whiskey menu was long, and we sampled some rare treats. Thanks to Greg for treating. Let's just say the prices were a tad more than in Southeast Asia.





The next two days I chilled with my friend Erin in downtown Long Beach. She is a furniture designer and painter, who is involved in the thriving art scene in LBC. She lives in a converted loft and is involved in a new collective called R U Long Beach, that is doing some amazing and cutting edge work with artists in the city. We spent our days biking along the boardwalk on the beach, and through the downtown area. Most people who visit the LA area will probably never come to Long Beach. I'm guessing that the locals like it this way, but I'll give you a little inside tip. The bar and restaurants are great, there is a great art scene, and it's a little less crowded than the areas immediately surrounding LA. One night we did leave the comfort of LBC, and made the trip to Santa Monica to celebrate my friend Jonathan's birthday at a great bar called Air Conditioned. There are several locations of this bar, Venice Beach being the better spot in my opinion, but we had fun, and seemed to take over the whole place.



In addition to visiting old friends, one of the main reasons I went to the LA area on this trip was to attend the Expo West natural products trade show. Just picture aisles and aisles of every food and beverage company imaginable. The focus is organic, quality foods and products, that you would find in a place like Whole Foods. I spent two days eating and drinking my way to heaven, and also got to check out a free concert by G Love and the Special Sauce, a Philadelphia native who played a mix of blues, soul, and funk music.

If you've never been to LA before, here are my recommendations. For a cool place to stay, check out the Standard Hotel in either downtown LA or Hollywood. It's a boutique hotel where I've stayed many times for work, but you definitely get a sense of the scene that is LA, especially if you attend the pool party on the roof of the downtown location. If you want to stay on the beach, go to the Georgian Hotel in Santa Monica. It's a tiny, cute, art deco hotel built in 1933, and has housed some of the old Hollywood royalty back in the day. One of the rooms is supposedly haunted...boo. This is usually where I stay when I come to LA, and I give it four thumbs up (two from me, and two from the ghost of the Georgian).

I love walking the boardwalk along the beach in Venice and Santa Monica. The Third street promenade in Santa Monica is great with tons of stores and restaurants. Definitely a place to people watch. It reminds me a lot of Lincoln Road in South Beach Miami. I also enjoy walking the Santa Monica pier with its massive Ferris wheel. I would walk down Melrose Avenue and check out the stores if you're into shopping. Fred Segal has the trendiest of the trendy clothing. If you like to surf, Malibu is good, so is Redondo and Hermosa beaches. If you want to drive a little further south to Huntington Beach, there are usually good waves there as well.

For food, my top pic is the Palms Thai restaurant in Thai town on Hollywood Boulevard. I have to thank David and Chris at Original Penguin for taking me there many years ago. The place moved locations several years ago, and although the old location had a better atmosphere, it's still fun to eat a meal while being serenaded by live musicians such as Thai Elvis, who does a great rendition of Love Me Tender. For burgers I would check out Father's Office in Santa Monica. I also really love In-N-Out Burger. I know it's fast food, but it's damn good, and you can only get it on the West coast. The fact that they have a secret menu makes it that much cooler. I always order my burger "animal style." I'll let you find out for yourself if you don't know what that is. Erin and I got some late night burgers after Jon's birthday in Santa Monica, and they were that much better at one in the morning.

I don't think I'll ever move to LA, but I will always come to visit friends. A big thanks to Greg, Danielle, Erin, and Jonathan, for their amazing hospitality on this trip. Hal, you're on my list next time I visit.

To see a little more, here are my photos from Los Angeles.

Toronto: My Home Town

I bet that many of you have never been to Canada before. Okay, this excludes my friends and family from Canada of course. But seriously, I've met so many Americans who have never even ventured across the border. It's true that many Americans don't even travel outside the lower forty eight states, but come on. And if you're one of those people who have been to Niagara Falls or Windsor, Ontario, that doesn't really count as visiting Canada. Toronto, the biggest city in Canada, and also where I grew up, is easily accessible and very cosmopolitan.

After a quick jaunt to New York City, I jumped on a Continental Airlines flight to Toronto. Continental is actually one of the best US based carriers I have ever flown, and way better than my native Air Canada. Sorry Canada, but this is one thing you got wrong. It's okay, I'll forgive you since You have amazing health care, great public schools, funding for the arts, your streets are clean, and you are extremely polite.

I spent about a week in total in Toronto, which is more than enough time if you just want to get the highlights of the city. I was there to catch up with family and friends, so I took some much needed rest after some serious globe-stomping in Asia.

The area I grew up in is called Riverdale, yes, like in the Archie comics. I'm sure I am being biased, but it's one of my favorite neighborhoods in Toronto. Riverdale park incorporates a large hill, that at the top, it gives one of the nicest skyline views of the city, especially at sunset. Plus, it's also the best tobogganing hill in the winter time. I was lucky to be in the city during a big snow storm (yes, I know you probably think I'm crazy for saying this), but because of this, I was able to go tobogganing for the first time in probably ten or fifteen years. Tobogganing is an activity that one should continue to do into old age. Seriously, it keeps you laughing and therefore young at heart.

So what did I do while in Toronto. Well, the most important thing was visiting old friends. This included food and nights out on the town. In addition to going tobogganing, I also attempted the sport of Curling for the first time. It's much harder than it looks, and it's also so much fun.

If you didn't know, Toronto is one of the most multicultural cities in the world. And with it, comes great food from around the globe. I ate the best dim sum at a local Chinese restaurant called the Grand, on Gerrard Street East, near Broadview Avenue. The main Chinatown (yes, there are several) is on Dundas Street West, and packed with great restaurants as well. If you want some authentic Indian food, head to Little India on Gerrard Street East. As for Italian, nothing beats Little Italy on College Street West, near Bathurst Street. This is also a great place for night life. If you want to experience a good market head to Kensington Market, just off of Spadina Avenue, near College Street. Not only can you get fresh produce, but it's home to some of the best vintage clothing stores in the World, and also to the best Jamaican beef patty joint, called the Patty King.

Speaking of street snacks, Toronto has the best hot dogs, and I'm not even slightly exaggerating this claim. New York is famous for its numerous street carts selling steamed kosher dogs, but nothing will prepare you for the massive grilled, yes grilled, hot dogs and sausages that are best enjoyed late night after a couple drinks. My favorite stand has always been on the corner of Queen Street West and Spadina Avenue. Besides being grilled over an open flame bar-b-que, the dogs are almost twice the size of New York's, plus you have the option of toppings like cheese, bacon bits, hot peppers, and multiple types of mustard. I usually eat mine with ketchup, mayo, American mustard, onions and/or sauerkraut, cheese, bacon bits, and banana peppers. It might sound like a heart burn in a bun, but done on occasion it is heaven, and a trip home isn't complete until you try one of these.

There are two other essential food and drinks from Canada that you must try if you make it to Toronto, or another Canadian city. The first is coffee from Tim Hortons (named after the famous hockey player). Canadians swear they put crack in the coffee to keep us addicted. The second is pizza from Pizza Pizza. It's not like it's the most fantastic pizza in the world, but it is a Canadian icon.

As for sightseeing and activities while in Toronto, there are plenty of things to keep you busy. There is a bustling theatre (yes, in Canada they spell it theatre) community. You can find many of the same Broadway shows from New York, including Mamma Mia, at theatres such as the Princess of Whales. If you are an art or museum lover, check out The Royal Ontario Museum (ROM), and the newly re-designed Art Gallery of Ontario (AGO) by Frank Gehry. Want to see something out of the ordinary, check out the unique Bata Shoe Museum. If you have children, the Ontario Science Centre will keep them entertained for hours. Not afraid of heights, then take the elevator to the observation deck of the CN Tower, and jump up and down on the glass floors while looking down. Go on, I dare you.

Toronto is best visited in the spring and summertime for obvious reasons, and if you find yourself in the city during this time, there are some outdoor places you have to visit. My favorite is the Toronto Islands, located just off-shore in Lake Ontario. This is an amazing place for biking and rolling blading. Plus, there is also a nudist beach if you're into that kind of thing. While you're strolling, or biking along the numerous paths, don't forget to take in the view of the city over the harbour. Most of the picture-perfect postcard scenes of the city, are taken from the Islands. As for some other fun outdoor activities, head to Ontario Place, Harbourfront Centre, the Toronto Beaches off of Queen Street East, and the massive High Park.

If you are a sports fan, then there are several options for live events, depending on the time of year. Toronto is home to a number of professional sports teams. The Blue Jays baseball, and the Argonauts football teams play at the Rogers Centre (formerly Sky Dome). The Maple Leafs hockey club, and the Raptors basketball team play at the Air Canada Centre.

My nights in Toronto were spent in the new party spot near the intersection of Queen Street West and Ossington Avenue. In this area is the Drake Hotel, which in addition to being a hotel, has a great bar and music scene. Just around the corner is Levack Block, another fun bar with dancing. If you want other areas, check out the Annex neighbourhood near Bloor Street and Spadina Avenue. I love Future Bakery and the Green Room for great food and coffee. There is also Queen Street West around Spadina and Bathurst Streets, which also has great bars and restaurants.

I know this is probably enough information to keep you busy for several months in Toronto, but it's just that I want you to love my home city and tell all your friends. Actually, let's keep it a little secret between you and me, okay? Because it's that great.

Check out my photos from Toronto, Canada.

My Ultimate New York

New York City, that's where I call home. As with many others, the city put a spell on me when I arrived in the Spring of 2002. By the end of 2007, I decided that I needed to see the world to determine if there was a better city out there to live in while being somewhat young, and to be honest, I still haven't found one.

While traveling, I met many backpackers on a classic around the world trip, that would bring them at some point through New York City. When they found out that I used to live in Manhattan, I was immediately asked a million questions on what to see and do. This is a subject I could talk about for hours, and I was always writing down suggestions on scraps of paper. Most of my suggestions are away from the main tourist areas and are things that I would like to do while living in the city.

Note: This is for people that don't want the Times Square and typical guide book tourist experience.

Without further ado, here are my top things to do, see, eat, and places to go in New York City...and that includes the boroughs too.

Where To Stay:

This is probably one of the most overlooked criteria for having a great New York experience. I get it, NYC lodging is expensive, so you do have to stay where you can find a decent rate, but you could also spend more money on taxi fare late at night if you end up staying far away from the action. My suggestion, stay below 42nd street. The further south the better. If you're looking for a hostel, stay at Jazz On The Town, which is on E. 14th Street at 2nd Avenue. Forget staying on the Upper East or West Sides. All the good action is around Union Square, the East and West Villages, Lower East Side, and the Meat Packing District. All of these areas are from 14th Street and south. Can't afford the $40 hostel bed, try staying on a stranger's couch with Couch Surfing.

Walking Tours:

Downtown Broadway

• Start at Madison Square Park, located at Broadway and 23rd Street. Take in the famous Flatiron Building, and don't forget to try some tasty treats at the Shake Shack, located on the south side of the park.


• Walk down Broadway (street numbers get smaller), through the Flatiron district, until you reach Union Square. You'll pass right by ABC Carpet and Home, which is one of the coolest stores in NYC.


• At Union Square, take a seat on a bench, or on the steps at the south side of the park along 14th Street, and just people watch for at least a half hour. On Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, there is the Green Market farmer's market, where you can get the best organic produce from local farms outside of the city. To get a bite to eat, check out the outdoor patio at Coffee Shop on the west side of the square. If you have some time and want to shop, there is also the complex along 14th Street, with the super cheap Filene's Basement, DSW, and Whole Foods.


• Continue South along Broadway until you get to 8th Street. You now have several options that might add some time to your day.


• Option 1: Head east along E. 8th Street, to visit the artsy East Village (and also my favorite neighborhood, and former residence in NYC). You'll pass by Astor Place, and then continue down St. Marks Street to Tompkins Square Park, located at St. Marks and Avenue A. You'll pass by my favorite brunch place called Cafe Orlin, and will finish at my favorite cheap sushi restaurant called Sushi Lounge.


• Option 2: Head west along W. 4th Street, to visit Greenwich Village's Washington Square Park (a must), and then further along to see the trendy West Village. Walking Bleeker Street is a great option as well. If you get hungry for some cupcakes, stop at Magnolia Bakery.


• After your detour, continue south again, down Broadway towards Houston Street (pronounced Howston street, not like the city in Texas). This is where some of my favorite architecture in New York city lies. Take your time and look up. The buildings get even nicer once you cross over Houston and are officially in the neighborhood of SoHo (South of Houston, in case you were wondering).


• Take a side detour and head west along Prince and Spring Streets, to check out the shops and art galleries.


• Back on Broadway, continue south to Canal Street and Chinatown. Hang a left (go east) on Canal Street and check out the shops and fake designer knock-offs for sale. Walk until you get to Mott Street and head right (south) along my favorite street in Chinatown. This is where some great restaurants are located, including Wo Hop at the corner of Mott and Worth Streets. My first apartment in NYC was right on this corner, and coincidentally on the famous Five Points. If you don't know about the Five Points, check out the movie Gangs of New York.


• Head west on Worth Street for one block, and then make a right (go north) at Mulberry Street. You'll pass by my favorite dumpling restaurant, called Tasty Dumpling (go figure), across from the park.


• Take Mulberry several blocks, back up to Canal Street, and once you cross over Canal, you'll be in the heart of Little Italy. Once you get here, relax after a long day, and get a bite to eat, "family style" at Casa Bella Ristorante. If you're around at the end of September, check out the Feast of San Gennaro street festival. One of my favorite things to do each year. Don't forget to try the deep fried Oreos.


• Finally, take a taxi or the subway, and go home. You should be exhausted by this point.
  

The Romantic Walk (date night)

• Take the A or C subway line from Manhattan to the High Street stop just across the East river, in Brooklyn.


• Exit the station and look for (or ask directions to) Old Fulton Street, directly under the Brooklyn Bridge.


• Head to Grimaldi's Pizzeria to share a classic large pizza pie from a coal brick oven.


• After dinner, walk down to the pier to take in the Manhattan skyline at night. Don't forget to get some desert at the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory, right on the waterfront.


• Then walk back up Old Fulton Street to the pedestrian entrance of the Brooklyn Bridge, and take a stroll along the famous bridge towards City Hall, while gazing at the lights ahead of you.

If you book early enough in advance, you can even get a free tour of New York by a volunteer tour guide. Check out Big Apple Greeter. They'll take you where you want to go, and it's a private guide for free, what a deal. They just want to make sure you have a great time in New York.

Parks:

• Central Park. If it's summer time, bring a blanket, picnic basket, and a frisbee, and hang out in Sheep's Meadow. Check out the dancing rollerbladers/rollerskaters on the east side of Sheep's Meadow near the beach volleyball courts. In the summertime there are free concerts at Summer Stage. The New York Philharmonic also has several summer shows on the Great Lawn.


• Prospect Park. Located next to Park Slope and Prospect Heights in Brooklyn, it's almost as big as Central Park, but not as busy. You can actually relax and bbq if you want to. There are also free shows in the summertime similar to Central Park.

Museums:

• The Metropolitan Museum of Art (The Met). Located on 5th Avenue, in Central Park. I think it's the best museum in the world, but that's just my opinion. The good news is that it's pay what you can by suggested donation. Most people don't know this, but you can give $1 if that's what you can afford.


• Museum of Modern Art (MoMA). Located on W. 53rd Street, near the 5th Avenue. It's actually free on Fridays after 4 pm.


• PS 1. Located in Long Island City, Queens, in an old public school building (public school #1) that was converted into a modern art gallery, and is run by MoMA. Head there on Saturday afternoons in the summer for the Warm Up parties.


• The Cloisters. Located in the upper northwest corner of Manhattan, The Cloisters is an oasis in the city. It's a medieval museum with outdoor gardens. Go in the summertime and bring a book. It's also run by the Metropolitan Museum of Art, so the entry fee is a suggested donation as well.

Summertime Spots:

• Warm Up at PS 1. Saturday afternoons at the PS 1 art gallery in Long Island City. There are DJs spinning funky house beats in the courtyard entrance to the gallery. All the cool kids are here.


• 79th Street Boat Basin. Located on the Hudson River at W. 79th Street. Eat amazing burgers and drink some cold beers while watching the sunset over the Hudson River and New Jersey.


• Harry's Water Taxi Beach. Also located in Long Island City, this is a man-made beach that overlooks Manhattan from the East River. Another great place to grab some bbq and beer and soak up the sun. It's not far from PS 1, and this becomes the after party from the Warm Up party on Saturday night.


• Summerstage. Free concerts in Central Park.


• Bohemian Hall Beer Garden. European style beer garden at it's finest. Located in a huge outdoor space in Astoria, Queens. It's worth the subway ride.

Restaurants and Good Eats:

Best Brunch (midday meal essential for New Yorkers on the weekends)

• Cafe Orlin - Located on St. Marks Street in the East Village. You have to try their goat cheese and tomato omelet, bagel with lox and cream cheese, and their eggs benedict combinations. It's also great for dinner. Prices around $10-15 a meal. You might even spot a celebrity sitting on the patio, but New Yorkers don't care about this, so don't stare.

Best Burger

• Corner Bistro - Located on W. 4th Street, in the West Village. The place is an institution, and hands down the best burger in Manhattan. It's a laid back bar, so get some beers and undo your belt buckle a notch.

Best Pizza

• Lombardi's - Arguably the best traditional Italian pizza in New York. It's located on Spring Street in Little Italy.

Best Cheap Sushi

• Sushi Lounge - On the corner of St. Marks Street and Avenue A in the East Village. Best value sushi in Manhattan without a doubt. Crazy combination rolls, and an amazing happy hour after 10 pm. You can't argue with $6 pitchers of Kirin beer and $2 Saketinis.

Favorite Dinner spots

• Panna II Indian Restaurant. This place is packed in with all the other cheap Indian restaurants at E. 6th Street and 1st Avenue in the East Village. Just walk the block of E. 6th from 1st to 2nd Aves and you'll see what I mean. There are chili lights, $10 three course meals, and it's B.Y.O.B, so you can't complain about the price. The food is actually really good, but there is a running joke that all the restaurants on this street share the same kitchen. If it's your birthday you get an extra special treat.


• Awash Ethiopian Restaurant. Great Ethiopian food also located among the Indian restaurants on E. 6th Street between 1st and 2nd Avenues in the East Village. Eat with your hands and leave stuffed for $20.


• Frank's. Homemade Italian food. Some of the best in the East Village. Also check out Little Frankie's and Supper, all by the same owner, and within walking distance of each other. Somewhat pricey, but not too bad.


• Il Buco. Another amazing Italian restaurant on the cobblestoned Bond Street in NoLita (north of Little Italy). The place is cozy and is filled with antiques. A great place for a romantic dinner or a night out with a group. Pricey but worth it.


• Bond St (6 Bond Street). Located in NoLita/East Village. If you have cash to burn, this is my favorite Sushi place in New York City. For great sushi, I also really like Blue Ribbon, and Nobu. These are all expensive restaurants, but well worth it.


• SEA Thai restaurant and Bistro. Located in Willamsburg, Brooklyn. A huge restaurant with amazing decor, and cheap food. Don't pass this up if you visit Willamsburg, and you should.


• Al Di La. Amazing Northern Italian food on 5th Avenue, in Park Slope. This street has some of the best eats in Brooklyn.

Dive Bars (rock 'n' roll, jukebox, pool table, and cheap booze):

• Blue and Gold Tavern. Located on E. 7th Street in the East Village, and my favorite bar in New York. For $5 you can get a shot of whiskey and a beer. This was the my first local hangout, and an institution for me.


• Cherry Tavern. Located on E. 6th Street in the East Village. Get a Tecate beer and a shot of Tequila for $5 as well.


• 7 B. Located at the corner of E. 7th Street and Avenue B in the East Village. Play a game of Big Buck Hunter while chugging a beer.


• Darkroom Bar. Located on Ludlow Street in the LES (Lower East Side). Best place to dance late night. Ludlow has amazing bars within a two block radius.


• Max Fish. Located on Ludlow Street in the LES, right across from Darkroom Bar.


• Mc Sorley's Old Ale House. Located on E. 7th Street in the East Village, it's the oldest bar in New York City, no joke. The place is a museum, they serve only two beers (their house light or dark), and there is sawdust on the floor to soak up the suds.

Nightlife:

• Turntables on the Hudson. Originally held on a pier and barge on the Hudson River, this party has had a number of venues over the last couple of years. It's still one of my favorite nights in New York.


• Bembe. A tiny Afro-Brazilian bar in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, that has cheap caiparhinas and a tiny dance floor to shake your booty.


• Sullivan Room. Great house music venue in Greenwich Village, but very small.


• Piano's. A small bar on Ludlow Street in the Lower East Side, with two floors and a music stage to see bands.


• Bowery Ballroom, Irving Plaza, and Mercury Lounge. Three venues to see live music.


• North Six. A great live music venue in Willamsburg, Brooklyn. Willamsburg actually has some of the best nightlife in NYC, check out Free Williamsburg for more info.


• Plan B. A good party bar in the East Village.

If you're after some serious clubs, head over to W. 27th Street near the Hudson. There you'll find venues such as Guest House, Home, and Pink Elephant. Not too far away is the Meat Packing District, which is another great area with cobblestone streets, and some of the best nightlife in NYC.

Shopping:

Depending on what you're looking for, there are numerous places to shop. For vintage clothes, check out the East Village. For designer clothes, go to SoHo, 5th Avenue, and the West Village. For a mix, shop Broadway south of Houston. And for discount clothing, you can't pass up the mecca of Century 21 in the Financial district.

There are plenty of other activities and sights that are cheap or free. Don't waste money on the ferry tour to the Statue of Liberty. Jump on the Staten Island Ferry for free, which goes right past the iconic statue. If you're around during baseball season, take in a Yankees game in the Bronx for about $10+ a ticket.

For the ultimate new york website, check out NewYorkology (credit goes to my friend Jodi from Legal Nomads who turned me onto this site). If you feel like meeting other New Yorkers for some activities, check out Meet Up.

If you're one of the lucky few to visit New York for New Years, and you need some suggestions on events and places to go, check out NOO for recommendations and tickets.

Okay, so this should keep you busy for a couple days, or a couple months. Good luck and enjoy one of the greatest cities in the world.

Back in the U.S.A.

Hello from Fiji! Before Jared and I tell you about our time here in paradise (seriously, Fiji is heaven on earth) let's look back on our quick jaunt to the good old U.S. of A. We spent 10 days seeing people we love and chowing down on all the food we'd been missing.

Jared and I don't plan too far in advance, so when Jared's sister offered us two free tickets to Houston for her graduation, we jumped at the chance to go home for a bit. We took advantage of some buddy passes and frequent flier tickets and mapped a frantic U.S. tour: first Houston, then Florida, New York, and finally Los Angeles.

We touched down in Houston after more than five months in South America. I couldn't help but immediately see the overconsumption that is prevalent in the States. Everywhere we looked we saw big SUVs, big houses, big portions of food. Then again, this was Texas, where everything is big.


We weren't in Houston to sightsee, we were there to see family. Jared's sister Rachel became one of the newest flight attendants in the skies, and we both gained a new respect for flight attendants. (Rachel can evacuate a plane in 90 seconds!) As a bonus, we got to stay with Jared's cousins Cindy, Todd, 3-year-old Jessica, and one-year-old Colin. Last time we saw Jessica she was only one, and this was our first time meeting Colin, who I wanted to take with me.


Our next stop was my hometown, West Palm Beach, Florida. Throughout our last few weeks in South America, I was growing more homesick by the day. Seeing my parents, grandparents, and best friends did more for my spirits than a stay at a five-star hotel. My parents are selling my childhood home, so next time I see them they will be living in Georgia. I gave my grandparents big hugs, because they are 81 and 90, and I can't take them for granted anymore. Jared and I even got to spend time with his grandmother Myra, who lives not far from my parents. Friends are the family you choose, so seeing Jen, Billy, Katie, Bill, Eileen, and Hope was as important as seeing my parents. (I just wish I had taken more pictures of everybody.) Take a look at Jared's photos from Houston and Florida.


Then it was on to New York City, which is still my favorite city in the world. We had 36 hours to see as many of our friends as possible. It was a chilly Tuesday night in the city, but a few friends came to meet us for dinner and karaoke, and even more came out later for drinks. Over salmon and avocado rolls at our old sushi joint, we all sang rousing versions of "Sweet Child O Mine" and "Bohemian Rhapsody". Being serenaded by Feldman was worth the price of admission. Jared and I had missed all our friends more than they know, and seeing them was worth the trip to New York.


The next day in New York, I realized I had lost my wallet. Somewhere between paying for the cab back to Maria's apartment the night before, and walking 10 blocks that morning, my wallet went missing. Both my debit cards and three credit cards were in my wallet, and I know better than to keep all that stuff in one place. As my favorite blogger would say, BE YE NOT SO STUPID. Now that I was back on familiar territory I had let my guard down, and I was paying the price. It's better to have lost my wallet in New York than in a foreign country, but still, this is not how I wanted to spend my one free day in the New York City. I wanted to spend my day getting lemon cupcakes from Buttercup Bake Shop.


Los Angeles was the last stop on our North American leg. We scored a great deal on a flight to New Zealand, via Fiji, at half the price we would have paid from South America. So by coming home, we actually saved $1600. Plus we got to spend time with our good friends Erin, Hal, Hasmik, Kareem, Noah, Greg, Danielle, and Jenni. We grilled on a sidewalk, soaked in a hot tub, and spent time enjoying the hospitality of our new and old friends. Our time in L.A. also coincided with Community Next, a conference founded by our friend Noah. (We were used to seeing Noah in boxers at his Buenos Aires apartment, so it was strange to see him in a suit.) Right before our flight, we even crashed a barbecue where the host, who only met us that day, made us an incredible lunch of root beer marinated pork chops and grilled eggplant. Check out our photos from New York and L.A.


Having seen lots of family and friends and satisfied my cravings for margaritas, buffalo wings, spinach dip, sushi, chocolate chip cookies, salt and vinegar chips, In-N-Out Burger, Ethiopian food, sushi, burritos, The Cheesecake Factory, cookie dough ice cream, and more sushi, Jared and I boarded our flight to Fiji. We left the states feeling happy, exhausted, and ready for another long leg of travel. Thank you to everyone who put us up, transported us to and from airports, fed us and came to see us. We appreciate it more than you know.

Safe travels, J & J.

P.S. GO YANKEES!

Iguazu Falls and Carnaval, our Introduction to Brazil

Hello, friends and family. As I write this post, Jared and I are celebrating four months on the road. Over the past four months, we have spent countless hours on buses because we would rather save the plane fare. Then again, an 18-hour bus trip isn´t so bad when you have an attendant serving you champagne and a seat that folds down into a flat bed. We traveled to Puerto Iguazú on the holy grail of buses, one with genuine flat beds.

Before we visited the famous waterfalls, Jared and I stopped at Triple Frontier landmark. As we stood across on Argentine soil, we could see Paraguay to the left and Brazil to the right, just across the river. Each country´s territory was marked with an obelisk in their national colors. Most likely, that is the closest we will get to Paraguay.


How can I describe Iguazú Falls? Only a poet could do it justice. Iguazú Falls are a series of 275 waterfalls along 1.7 miles of the Iguazú river. The cataratas, as they are called in Spanish, are mostly 210 feet tall, though some are as tall as 269 feet. (Niagara Falls, for the record, are 167 feet tall.) Separating Brazil from Argentina, the falls should be seen from both sides to be properly appreciated. Argentina has the closer look--we took a boat into the base of some of the falls--while Brazil has the panoramic view. And, oh what a view. Take a look at Jared´s photos and try to imagine the roar of Iguazú Falls.


We finally got our Brazilian visas in Puerto Iguazú. The small consulate in the Argentine border town didn´t want to see any bank statements or proof of onward travel, they only wanted cold, hard cash. My visa cost $147, and Jared´s cost $70, almost 50% more than we were expecting. (Sometimes it pays to be Canadian.) And for some strange reason, my visa has a big stamp on it that says "FREE." If only that were true.

From beautiful Iguazú Falls, it was another overnight bus to Florianópolis, Brazil, where we would spend Carnaval. We stayed on the Ilha de Santa Caterina, at the Armaçao beach. In the small village of Armaçao, the Carnaval party was centered right outside our hostel. Music blared from a lone parade float, hundreds of people danced in the streets. As soon as the Super Bowl was over (congratulations, New York Giants!), Jared and I grabbed our caiprinhas and joined the party. Check out our photos of Carnaval and Florianopolis.

Honestly, up until Carnaval, I wasn´t so sure I wanted to visit Brazil. The language barrier, higher costs, and crime stories made me nervous. All my fears disappeared when a group of Brazilian women grabbed me by the hips during the party and showed me how to samba. Even though I can´t understand their language, the warmth of the Brazilian people is infectious.

Now that Carnaval is over, Jared and I are still having a fantastic time in Brazil. We are currently in Paraty, a small town with the best examples of colonial Portuguese architecture. You´ll hear more about Paraty in our next post.

Remember the volcano we saw back in October in Banos, Ecuador? Now it is erupting, though currently Banos isn´t at risk.

Punta del Diablo: Where all the young people go to party

After the most pampered couple of days around New Years (Thanks to the Lema family), Julie and I set off for Punta del Diablo, another beach town 3 hours up the coast, closer to Brazil. Our guide book described it as the anti Punta del Este, and they were right since it was cabins instead of high rise condos, although they forgot to mention that it´s the place all the young people go after New Years, so it wasn´t the small backpacker town we were expecting.

We showed up in the evening on Jan 2nd. I should take the time to mention that when traveling in high season, you need to think about arrival time in a new place. It´s something that I never really thought about until recently. If you don´t have a reservation, and most of us backpackers don´t, then you need to arrive around noon, when others are checking out. Since we arrived at night, it made finding a place difficult. That, and the fact that every young person from Uruguay, Argentina, and Brazil had descended upon the town, to party it up for their summer vacation after New Years, and all the cottages were totally booked up for the season until March.

So, we went from the lap of luxury in Punta del Este, to staying in the crappiest hostel I have stayed in to date on this trip, maybe ever. Just to paint a picture of how crappy it was, they were originally an HI (Hosteling International) member, but lost their status. I wonder why! We stayed in separate dorm rooms. Mine had 23 beds, and a stench of mildewing bathing suits and towels. The showers, bathrooms, kitchen and common room were in disrepair, and god only knows when the place was last cleaned. The second day we tried to find a bungalow to rent or another hostel to stay at, but couldn´t find space. By the third day, I started to get used to the place. Ear plugs saved me from all the snoring people, and we had a parilla (BBQ) with the other guests, which made it more of a communal experience.



The town of PDD is massive. It is spread out with all these ski chalet like bungalows all over the place. There are only a couple hotels, as it seems most people rent private cottages. But as big as it seems, you can walk the town pretty easily...much easier if you´ve had a bottle or two of wine beforehand. The two main beaches are great for people watching, and they have good surf when there are waves. I spent 3 days hoping for good waves, but none came. Ah well. C'est la vie. I should also mention that the town has a little artists market, but the best thing about this market is that they have several stands selling the best empanadas I have ever tasted. Totally different from Argentine empanadas, these were deep fried, and so good.



One of the highlights of our four days in PDD was meeting some locals from Montevideo. One evening we met an American couple in our hostel. The girl had family in Uruguay and her cousins had rented a cabin in town with 9 others. I should probably mention it was 11 girls crammed into a place that could sleep a couple people comfortably. That´s how they do it here. At 12 am, after the parilla/grill was ready, we cooked a feast and danced to old 90´s music that I thought was forgotten. Oh, and dinner at this time is completely normal down here. At 3 am, which is prime time, we set off for a club that was a 20 min walk down a dirt road, outside in the forest. The place is to date one of my favorite clubs. About a thousand people were dancing and singing the lyrics to the spanish pop songs of the summer, all under the stars. By 5 am we were spent and headed home, but I think the locals stayed out until 9am or so, which is also normal. It´s my 29th birthday on Thursday, and already I feel old. Although, as my Mom constantly states, age is a state of mind. I guess I just need more training to keep up with the 21 year olds down here. To see what we´re talking about, here are my photos of PDD.

Go to Punta del Diablo, you´ll have a blast. Eat the empanadas like they are going out of style, find the clubs in the forest, but please book ahead so you don´t end up with a hostel bed in the crappy HI. Here´s a travel site with hotels and cabins for rent, plus other info on PDD.

I should also mention that we had a brief visit to Montevideo, the country´s capital on the way back to Buenos Aires. We had exactly 5 hours to see some sights before our night bus, so we went to the old city. My first impression was that this city is run down. There is more poverty than other parts of Uruguay, and Buenos Aires. There are all these beautiful old buildings that are unoccupied. It´s a shame. The city center was clean and modern, and the bus terminal is the best I´ve seen in South America, so maybe we didn´t see the best parts in 5 hours. Here are my photos of Montevideo. If you do end up going through Montevideo, you need to try the medio y medio. It´s a bottle of mixed champagne and white wine, and will refresh on the hottest of days.

Some of you have asked about how we travel, and the quality of buses in South America. The US and Canada could learn something from this. Ecuador and Bolivia aside, we´ve traveled most of the continent in first class double decker buses. The seats are similar to business class in airplanes. There are three seats to a row, they recline most of the way, have foot rests, and there are bus attendants that serve you a meal. Couple this with some good earplugs and an eye mask and you sleep like a baby, ready for sightseeing at your next destination.