GlobeStompers gets a makeover

Hey there fans of GlobeStompers, I have some exciting news. As you have probably noticed, the site has received a makeover. If you're an email subscriber, check out the site to see for yourself. We're getting closer to our two year anniversary, and it was time to change things up a little bit. The small makeover is courtesy of Peter Ames, the brilliant Creative Director at TVI Designs.

It's been an interesting month traveling around Europe, and I'll have some more posts in the coming weeks. Since my last post, I toured around ancient Rome, partied it up in Stockholm, and took advantage of the beer gardens in Hamburg.

I hope everyone is enjoying the summer...if you're in the Northern hemisphere. New posts will be coming shortly.

Ravello and Vietri Sul Mare: Two towns you should visit on the Amalfi Coast

Two places in the Amalfi Coast that you must visit are Vietri Sul Mare and Ravello. Both towns are extremely beautiful, with Vietri Sul Mare right on the coast, and Ravello perched high up on a plateau, overlooking the sea. Maybe you’ve heard about the famous ceramics from Vietri Sul Mare, or the Ravello Festival, which is a summertime concert series of musical events? After about a week of chilling out in Maiori, it was time for little sightseeing.

I had visited Ravello for the first time in the summer of 2007, and to this day, it’s still one of the most romantic and beautiful places I have been. You can get to Ravello several ways, including a direct bus from the town of Amalfi, but I think half the fun is hiking up to the town, taking in the changing views with every step. There are stairs the whole way up, passing by doors to many homes. Now I understand why people here live so long, they definitely get their exercise. I started the climb from the town of Minori, which sits directly under Ravello on the coast. My parents and I started at about ten o’clock in the morning since it gets really hot midday and it’s nice to rest at lunch time, eating in the shade, while overlooking the coast below.

The whole coast is composed of a network of trails, many of which are stairs that link the little towns together. The climb up was pretty straightforward from Minori, and there are enough signs so you don’t get lost. The climb takes about an hour, or an hour and a half if you’re hiking with two old parents who are slow going. It’s my mother’s sixtieth birthday on Tuesday, but as she likes to say “age is a state of mind,” and she hiked at a good pace.

After about a ten minute walk from Minori, you come to the town’s beautiful little cemetery. It was interesting to take a quick peek and look at the family tombstones over the past hundred years. Generations of families who were born and raised in this tiny town. It was such a nice view over the sea, that I wouldn’t mind being buried here when the time comes, but somehow I feel like I would need to live in the town before this was allowed.

Continuing the climb, we then passed through the tiny town of Torello, and finally reached Ravello, via a small pathway opening up into the Piazza Duomo, the main square with a nice church. Being lunch time, it was quieter than I remembered, but I walked around to take some photos and admire the view looking down the other side of the valley to the towns of Scala and Pontone. Ravello is known as a glamorous town, with celebrities and the upper classes staying in some of the best five star luxury hotels, such as the Hotel Caruso, or the Palazzo Sasso. It was only natural that I would have a star sighting, and I came across Dennis Leary, comedian and actor, sitting by himself in the town square, looking across at the Church. I figured it was probably better to let him enjoy his holiday in somewhat anonymity, than harass him for a photograph.

Ravello was originally founded around the fifth and sixth centuries AD, and some of the wealthiest families built palaces here in the Middle Ages and Renaissance periods. These of course have been converted into luxury hotels. The small town which is perched on a flat plateau, is filled with gorgeous cobblestone pathways, old houses, hotels with views that will take your breath away, and some fantastic restaurants. It is touristy, I won’t lie, but you can avoid the crowds at times. Lunch time is a perfect chance to get away, and enjoy a meal with stunning views. I think the views over Minori and Maori are the best. My family likes to eat at the hotel and restaurant Villa Amore. The food is fantastic, it’s reasonably priced for the quality, and the husband and wife owners are so friendly. This time around I ate a nice white fish cooked in a tomato sauce, but I definitely had food envy when I tasted the fish my parents ordered, which was a grilled white fish in olive oil, lemon, wine vinegar, and mint. It may not sound like much, but then again, Italians are masters of making mind blowing meals with few ingredients.

Being one of the most beautiful places on the coast, and possibly in the world, many people choose to get married in Ravello, and I understand why. If you’re thinking of a destination wedding the two places I love are the Hotel Villa Amore, and my favorite, the Villa Eva, which just next door. Once you see the views overlooking the coast, you’ll understand why.

After a nice lunch I made my way over to Villa Cimbrone, with its massive gardens at the tip of the plateau. The villa was originally built in the fourteenth or fifteenth centuries by a noble family, but was later rebuilt by an English Lord in 1904, who purchased the property. I had visited the property two years earlier, and it is worth the six Euro entrance fee to the grounds. There are pathways that take you across the lawns, and through the gardens filled with sculptures and flowers. At the end of one of the paths is a terrace at the very tip, which overlooks the sea and the gulf of Salerno. This is my most favorite view of the coast, and also the best for photos. To one side you can see Maiori and Minori. On the other side, you look down towards the town of Atrani. The villa has several rooms to spend the night, if you can afford it. But then again, there is also a private helicopter pad, so if you can afford a helicopter, than you probably can pay for a night at the villa.

The other main site in town with stunning views is the Villa Rufolo. Built in the thirteenth century, with gardens overlooking the sea, this is where the composer Wagner was inspired to write part of the second act of Parsifal. The villa grounds are home to the Concerti Wagneriani, a summertime festival of classical music, and to part of the Ravello Festival. The large concert stage was being erected when I was visiting, and the view made me wish I could stay longer to hear a performance while watching the sun set over the Mediterranean Sea. The Festival di Ravello runs from July to September.

I took a different path back down to Minori, and found myself walking through lemon groves for most of the way. It was the path less traveled so to speak, but it was well worth it. I got lost several times, but since this trail was set further back in the valley, I had great views into the Minori and the sea down below. The whole area smelled like lemons, and I didn't see a single person on this trail. What a great way to end the day.

Vietri Sul Mare is the first town you reach while driving from Salerno. It’s a great first introduction to the towns on the coast, since it’s one of the most charming places I’ve visited. The town is located in a valley, and occupies both sides of the river, and like most towns in the area, it’s comprised of both the shore and the hillside.

If you’ve heard of Vietri Sul Mare, it’s probably because of their ceramic trade which has made the town so famous. I had so much fun wandering the small cobblestone lanes filled with stores, cafes, restaurants and you guessed it, lots of ceramic shops; the most famous ones being Ceramica Pinto, and the massive Ceramiche Artistiche Solimene. The building itself is a work of architecture wonder, by Paolo Soleri, who worked with Frank Lloyd Wright. The studio and store is four stories tall, the bottom floor being a hodge podge of ceramics stacked all over the place for sale, and the top three floors are where the craftsmen make the pieces by hand. While exploring the building, I noticed that there was a group of people on the upper floors. I figured it was open to the public as no one stopped me while I walked through an unlit passageway packed with boxes, but it turns out that I saw a school group being given a private tour, and so I tried to blend in with the kids in matching uniforms, while watching the workers hand paint plates and bowls. If you’re looking to get a new dining set, this is place to buy it. They do custom work for many of the hotels along the coast, and ship all over the world.

I had a fun time wandering the streets and taking photos. The town is proud of its ceramic heritage, and this is seen with all the public artwork adorning the walls as you walk around. I think what I like about Vietri Sul Mare is that it’s a healthy balance of tourism and locals just getting along with their days. Whereas everyone seems like a tourist in Amalfi or Positano, the townspeople here were going about their day as usual, shopping for groceries, or heading to the beach. I should mention that the beach is nice, and is only about a ten minute walk downhill from the town center, but it was packed on a weekday, and I could only imagine how a weekend would be. It is only a ten minute drive from Salerno, so if I was living there, this is where I would want to spend a sunny afternoon.

To see why I love these two places, here are my photos from Ravello and Vietri Sul Mare. I should preface this by telling you there are a lot of pics. I just couldn’t help myself. This is one of the most photogenic places I have ever been. Whether you’re celebrating your sixtieth birthday such as my mother, backpacking through Europe, getting married, or on a honeymoon, this is one of the most romantic places I’ve been to.

The Amalfi Coast might be the most beautiful place on Earth

The Amalfi Coast of Southwest Italy is one of the most beautiful places I have ever been. I know, it’s a bold statement. I’ve been to a good amount of countries in the last two years, since I first visited this region in 2007. I still get that same feeling of awe when I look across at the jagged coastline, with little towns built into the hillsides and small valleys, and the towering mountains behind them. Lemon groves on the step terraces of the steep hills give the area a sweet smell, and make for beautiful scenery when you are walking between towns. For tourists that know of the Amalfi coast, they usually only think about the towns of Amalfi and Positano. These were made famous by American authors John Steinbeck and Tennessee Williams, who lived in the areas while they wrote. But there is so much more than just these two, over-touristy towns.

The Amalfi coast is located south of Naples, framed by the towns of Sorrento in the North and Salerno in the South. If you fly into Rome, which I did, it’s about a three hour train ride from Termini station to Salerno, then about an hour bus ride along the coast to the towns of Maiori, Minori, Ravello, Atrani, and Amalfi. If you follow this route, make sure you get a bus seat on the left side, since this will give you the best views over the towns and sea. You can also take a boat from Salerno or Naples to Amalfi, which allows you to see the beautiful coastline from the sea. The road for most of the journey is high up on the hills, on top of cliffs, with a steep drop down. The drive is one of my favorites, since the road is about the width of two buses at most, and of course there is no shoulder. Throw in a ton of hair-pin turns, and your blood pressure rises when the driver speeds around blind turns, honking his horn, and hoping you’re the only vehicle. One of these days I want to come back and drive this route in a fast car or motorbike, just because I think it would be fun.

Life is good here. It’s easy. No rush hour traffic. People are friendly, greeting each other with a simple “buon giourno” or “ciao.” The towns typically shut down from about one to four in the afternoon, since it’s hot during those times, so I understand why. It’s a nice break if you’re working, or lucky to be relaxing at the beach. Families get together for a big meal, then it’s time for an afternoon break. For me, it includes a nice long nap.

My family has been coming to this area for the last three years. We’re a traveling family in the sense that my parents and sister have always traveled as well, and I guess this is why I am who I am. It looks like they also feel the same about this place, which is why they come back to rent the same little villa each year for May and June. It’s nothing fancy, but it does have a nice terrace with a view over the town of Maiori and the Mediterranean Sea. I can tell you that with a view like this, no one would ever need to eat dinner in front of the television again. Instead of finding out if Jack Bauer made it out alive again on the series “24” or if Ted finally found his future wife on “How I Met Your Mother” (my favorite show by the way), I watch the colors of the changing sky during sunset, listen to the sounds of the town’s church bells, and get lost in my thoughts. Maybe if I stay here until I’m old, I will become a man who just sits on a bench, watching the world go by.

I’ve been here for about a week so far. Relaxing, and taking advantage of the good food, fantastic regional wines, the beaches, and of course the stunning scenery. The town of Maiori is the largest town in the area, and is where the majority of Italians in this area live. There are tourists, but they are Italians. It’s the ideal place to try and immerse oneself in the culture and language. I’m getting better with both, but a week so far is hardly enough time.

Maiori has one main road running along the coast, that is filled with small hotels, restaurants, and a large beach separated only by a pier. Italians like their beach clubs, so for about ten Euros a day you can rent two chairs and an umbrella on a private stretch of sand, or you can find a spot to relax on the small public beaches, which seem to be more fun, and less packed.

There is another main road that runs up through the valley, and into the mountain towns of Tramonti. A large promenade also runs up from the beach and is filled with specialty shops such as a bakery or butcher. In the distance, up in the hills, is the Ninth century Castle of San Nicola de Toro Plano, which looms above the town. It’s mostly ruins now, with lemon groves, but there is the nicest old caretaker who will show you around, pointing to things with large hand gestures, while talking in Italian. I just smiled and said “si” all the time. It’s amazing how a smile is something that transcends the language barrier, and can make both parties feel at home. I try to practice this even when I’m in an English speaking country, and especially when I’m abroad in an area with a language that is new to me.

Just before dinner, and again after the meal, the promenade gets packed with locals taking their customary stroll, called a “passeggiaro.” You’ll see couples, friends, and family members walking along holding hands, or linking arms. It’s a great Italian custom practiced all over the country. At sunset, the promenade is especially beautiful. The houses are from a mix of eras. Their walls are stuccoes in pastel colors of pinks and yellows, which have faded over time. Flowers of pinks, purples, yellows, flow from balconies. I especially love that buildings like these have big windows, with shutters, and large balconies that look out over the street. It’s a very typical style of old Europe, but something that you just don’t find in North America, and it brings a smile to my face whenever I get reminded of this. Not far up from the beach on this main promenade, you’ll find the Palazzo Mezzacapo built in the nineteenth century, with gorgeous frescoed ceilings, and a nice garden in back. It’s now municipal offices. Could you imagine going to work each day in a setting like this?

In between these two main streets running up from the beach, there are little cobblestone laneways, big enough only for pedestrians and scooters. Found in many classic Italian towns, these laneways are the most fun to wander through, as they twist and turn, with stairs going up or down, and they give you the feeling that you are not in your home country. Unless, you were lucky enough to grow up in Italy, or a similar European place.

Just around the bend, up the coast from Maiori, is the small, and cute town of Minori. As the name suggests, it’s a smaller version of its neighboring town. I find the beach here a little more scenic than in Maiori, since it’s smaller, and framed by two cliffs, with the town of Ravello towering above. The one main road which winds its way from the old church and shore, is quaint. For the history or archaeology buff, there is a well preserved Roman villa you can visit. Other than this, there isn’t much sightseeing in Minori, or much of the other towns on the Amalfi Coast, outside of natural vistas, which is really the reason you want to come visit the area. Hiking is a major activity of the area, as the coast didn’t get a real road until the mid eighteen hundreds, so the towns are all linked by a network of paths and stairs going up and down. Every step up provides another breathtaking vista. I did a great hike up into the hills behind Maiori and Minori, to the Convent of San Nicola, built in the sixteen hundreds. It’s closed now, but the view of the towns and sea was stunning, and also a great spot to eat lunch with a bottle a vino. The hike down through the valley into Minori, passes by smaller towns, and even some old ruins of paper mills which were once a large business for the coast. The Amalfi coast is believed to be the first location in Europe where paper was made, and the Vatican still uses Amalfi paper for correspondence.

Italian cuisine, wow, where to start? I guess with the antipasti! These are the appetizers if you didn’t already know. There is fried calamari, caprese salad of buffalo mozzarella, tomato, and basil. Steamed clams and mussels, prociutto and melon. Then of course there is the first course of pasta or pizza, followed by a second course of a meat dish. Since it’s a coastal area, seafood dominates many of the dishes, whether it’s risotto, pasta, or grilled fish. Lemons are incorporated into a lot of dishes, since they grow almost everywhere on the coast.

One highlight for me, was eating at the Torre Normanna restaurant run by four brothers, on the second night in town. The restaurant is set in an ancient Norman Tower from 1250 AD, which was used as a lookout post over the sea. The setting is breathtaking, especially at sunset and night, since you can see all the lights of the coastal towns twinkling in the distance. Then there is the food. I’m not sure how my father loses weight every time he’s here, but all I seem to be doing is eating. Maybe it is the combination of walking everywhere, and the healthy, fresh food. I shouldn’t be complaining, I’m enjoying life right now.

Coming to towns like Maiori remind me that quality is essential when buying food. For Italians, this is another form of religion. Everything here is fresh, and grown locally. People have small fridges, and they generally go shopping everyday. My family goes to the butcher, the pescheria for fish, the vegetable store called Tutti Frutti (I love it). No preservatives, nothing is picked prematurely, only to somewhat ripen en route to the supermarket. I had forgotten what real tomatoes tasted like until I came here. This is living.

Two things I must mention are: 1) If you are going to stay on this part of the coast, get in touch with the amazing sisters Julia and Mille who run Amapola Servizi Turistici, and they can find you an apartment for rent. 2) When you do get your apartment with a kitchen, head to Il Pastaio in Minori (Largo Solai del Pastai, #37) and pick up the best fresh pasta I have ever eaten, prepared by Filamena. Cook their lemon and ricotta ravioli with a marinara sauce, and drink with a local wine such as Greco di Tufo or Fiano di Avellino, from the Campania region.

I’ll be here for a little longer, with more activities and sight-seeing along the coast, but in the meantime, here is a little taste of the area with some pictures from Maiori, Minori, and their surroundings.

Have you ever been to this area or somewhere similar? If so, I’d love to hear about it.

A Great Laptop Bag for Traveling

I think back in the day laptop/briefcase bags were kind of a niche market. First off, laptops were ridiculously bulky and heavy, and so you generally needed a massive bag to support the weight. Plus, not everyone had a laptop. Nowadays, it seems that everybody has a laptop, including my grandma, and they are much smaller, lighter, and oh so portable. It makes sense that if you're going to get a backpack, you might as well get one that is designed to hold and protect your laptop.

In comes Timbuk2, with their line of laptop bags that are designed to be stylish and functional for a commute, especially if you're biking around town. Timbuk2, a San Francisco based company, has been making bags for twenty years. I first came across their bike messenger bags when I was living in Boulder, Colorado back in 1997. I remember seeing their tri color packs and thinking these guys not only make a great waterproof bag, but they are super stylish. So, it only makes sense that Timbuk2 would evolve their line and bring in some great laptop backpacks.

The guys luggage.com at asked me to review one of their briefcases, so it was only natural to pick Timbuk2's Underground Daypack. First off you'll notice that the bag is made of ballistic nylon. It's lightweight, but the material was designed to protect World War II airmen from flying debris. Just think about what it can do to protect your precious things inside. The material is also water resistant, and I can attest to this since I wore the bag out in the pouring rain for about 30 minutes, and my valuables were still dry.

The bag has 5 compartments. One main area where you can slide your laptop in the back, plus room for books, camera, or whatever else you need for the day. There are two side compartments that have great organizing sections, one side that can hold a water bottle and has a mesh small pocket, and the other side that has sections for pens, a key ring tether, and a mobile phone pocket. There is a pocket that runs the whole front side of the bag, where you can put items that need to be easily accessible, like some change, a granola bar, sun screen, etc. The pocket I love the most is on the top of the pack, which is a little compartment to hold your mp3 player. It has an inner sleeve to keep your music player in one place, and also has a slot to run your earphones out of the bag, so you can listen to your favorite tunes while you're dodging pedestrians or traffic on your bike or walk to work, school, or just sightseeing around town.





There are a couple other features worth mentioning. The bag has some serious padding on the back, with mesh to keep you a little drier while being active. The undersides of the shoulder straps also have this same mesh. I like that the padding is pretty thick as well, since you know it's going to protect your laptop, and I also hate when items in my bag dig into my back. The bottom of the bag also has two rubber guards that help to protect it from the elements and scraping against the pavement.



All in all, I think this is a fantastic bag for the traveler and for the city dweller. The pack is great as a carry on bag for planes, trains, and buses. I also think it's a good commuter pack if you're heading to school or to work. The design helps it sit higher on your back, and this is awesome when you're on a bike. I give Timbuk2's Underground Daypack two thumbs up, and for $83.99 plus free shipping here at luggage.com, you can't pass it up if you're currently shopping for a new bag. It comes in three color variations to choose from, but the one featured here is the Army/Spinach/Army colors.

Since I had such a great time testing out this pack, I want to give one lucky reader the chance to win it for free, and enjoy it for a lifetime. Drop me a line at jared@globestompers.com, and tell me why you have to have this bag.